087 YUZU GOSHO

Innai, Usa City, in the northern part of Oita Prefecture. Yuzu trees were planted decades ago on what used to be rice terraces, and now it is a major production area. Standing on the mountainside with a great view, the yuzu fields that look like green steps are Sato's fields, where he cultivates Hanzaki yuzu. Hanzaki is a dialect word for the giant salamander, a protected species of Japanese giant salamander, and because he does not use pesticides, he does not pollute the river where the giant salamanders live. On the other hand, Sato's fields are full of insects. Jorogumo spiders make their nests, and cicada shells lie on the trunks. The long thorns of the yuzu trees also make for a stimulating experience.

Before the ripe yellow yuzu reaches its peak harvest, the two weeks around the autumn equinox are the peak for green yuzu. This is explained to us by "Madame Yuzu" Yoshie Kamiya. Normally, the timing of thinning out the fruit is delayed until the last possible moment, allowing for the harvest of fresh, green yuzu that is perfect for yuzu kosho. When you dig your fingernail into the skin, the juice bursts in a mist, making it incredibly fresh.

On the other hand, the pepper used for yuzu kosho is green chili peppers. The harvest seasons of local green chili peppers and green yuzu overlap, so Kamiya chooses those two weeks of the year to make yuzu kosho. He adds salt, puts it through a food processor, and then crushes it in a mortar and pestle. When the ingredients are well mixed and slightly sticky, it's done.

Madame Yuzu sent me some green yuzu and green chili peppers, and I prepared yuzu gosho as instructed. I soaked the resulting yuzu kosho in rice spirits for a sufficient amount of time before distilling it. The aroma of yuzu fills your nose, and the spiciness of the chili peppers pops out. Enjoy the aroma of this Yuzu Kosho drink at the table. You can also drink it with soda during meals.

Product: Brandy
Content capacity: 100ml/500ml
Ingredients: Mandarin oranges (from Okayama Prefecture), yuzu, green chili peppers (from Oita Prefecture), rice spirits, water
Alcohol content: 42%

Artwork by Ryota Nishimoto

In the northern part of Oita Prefecture, there is a town called Inai, Usa City. The yuzu that was planted decades ago in what used to be terraced rice paddies has now become a major production area. Standing on a mountainside with a great view, the yuzu field that looks like a green staircase is the field of Mr. Sato, who grows Hanzaki citron. The word "hanzaki" is a dialect word to the Japanese giant salamander, a protected species, and because he does not use pesticides, he does not pollute the rivers where the salamanders live. Instead, Mr. Sato's fields are filled with insects. A widow spider has built a nest, and there are cicada shells on the trunk. The long thorns of the yuzu tree are also a source of irritation.

The peak season for green yuzu is the two weeks before and after the autumnal equinox, before the ripe yellow yuzu is harvested. Sadae Kamiya, aka "Madam Yuzu," taught me how to grow them. By delaying the thinning of the fruit until the very last minute, she is able to produce fresh green yuzu that is ideal for yuzu kosho. When you run your fingernail over the skin, the juice comes out in a mist and is just so fresh.

On the other hand, the pepper for yuzu kosho is green chili pepper. The key to making yuzu pepper is that the local green chili peppers and green yuzu peppers are harvested at the same time. He adds salt, runs it through a food processor, and crushes it further in a mortar. When the whole mixture is blended and a little sticky, it is ready.

Madam Yuzu sent me some green yuzu and green chili peppers, and I prepared the yuzu gosho as she taught me, and distilled the resulting yuzu kosho by soaking it thoroughly in rice spirits. The aroma of the yuzu comes through the nose, while the stimulation of the togarashi pops. Enjoy the aroma of yuzu kosho at your table. It can also be enjoyed with soda.

Item: Brandy
Contents: 100ml / 500ml
Ingredients: mandarin oranges (Okayama Prefecture), yuzu, green pepper (Oita Prefecture), rye spirit, water
Alcohol content: 42%.

Artwork by Ryota Nishimoto